LATENIGHT - KOREA

Monday, October 05, 2009

Happy Chuseok, 2009

Another year's gone by and I want to wish everyone a happy Chuseok. Much of the holiday has already passed if you're back in Korea. As it feel on a weekend, it only became a three-day break instead of the common five-days you get if the date lands just right.

We spoke to our in-laws over the phone to Busan and despite recessions and economic downturns and other universal concerns, everyone is getting by alright and we're happy for that.

Nonetheless, I'm longing more and more these days for a return to Korea. My wife reminds me that I'm getting too old to be marketable at 36 Korean age. Toronto life has been quite mundane since we moved up last year, with not much else outside of work and coming home to the usual chores, before going to bed early and waking up early for a new day. The higher salaries we earned by coming here have been welcome, but raises get eaten up by taxes so quickly that you hardly notice an increase and the longer working hours consume the bulk of our days. If after reading all this post, you think it comes across focused pretty heavily on career-related comments, that's the reason why. There's not much else in our lives at the moment.

So I keep turning my eyes back to the far east. Korea had its problems but much of those, for me, were inherent in the restrictions of the E2 visa. A return would mean getting an F2 visa with a lot more freedom, and our savings would let us move into a place under our own name, instead of one dependent on my job. The biggest downside would be that it would mean moving further away from my family, but even our Toronto life gets in the way of visiting them back in the Maritimes.

We're left with the option of being near neither family or just one, however a move back to the Maritimes to be near mine would be economically unfathomable with the low wages and poor jobs there. In Korea, the salary would be about half what I make in Canada, but with the taxes so low and the option to strike a good chonsei deal, our take home could be slightly higher.

But for now, my wife is happy to be working in her job. I've recently changed companies and am still making fair money. Some positive plans for next year may also see us consumed by something new to the household for at least a little while. In the meantime, I guess I will try to keep studying Korea and keep up with the happenings there from afar.

So here's to another Chuseok! May you all remain happy, healthy and content.

Sunday, October 05, 2008

Dongjakgu to Incheon and Home, Day 6.

We had a plane to catch on Saturday, our last day. We woke up at my brother-in-law's house and tidied the place up in preparation for our leaving. We were off to Incheon to catch our flight home to Canada and my in-laws would be heading back to Busan.

We also went for a bit of shopping although there wasn't much room in our luggage for more souvenirs. However, we did want to help stock up the newlyweds' home a bit before we left so we ventured out to one of the local streets where some household wares could be found.

The streets in my brother-in-law's neighbourhood are tiny, I will say. These days though, there's a bit of a facelift going on. A lot of the older buildings are being torn down and brand new ones going up. The night before the wedding, we passed by a huge open pit with a small excavator working away. By the time we were back, the foundation was laid and the building started. It's still quite a chore to navigate though, and made worse if you have to squeeze past construction equipment.

The style of many of the buildings is the same, but you can tell by the brickwork that the places are newer. My brother-in-law's is probably only a few years old. Across the street a new building was going up that was the exact same style, but it had light grey bricks and a glossy parkade underneath. It looked like glass more than concrete.

Shops along the street, Dongjak-gu, Seoul.

We made our way to the shops down the hill and started looking for whatever would be useful, whether it was paper towel, garbage cans, or kitchen stuff. We also noticed they didn't have a wall clock yet so that was something I started hunting for, as a farewell gift. I found some beautiful ones at great prices. All in all, the prices of most things were cheaper than in Canada, too. I found Gillette razor blades for less than a third what you pay in Canada.

Still, finding Western products was a bit like uncovering a treasure trove. I took the above picture just to show you what sorts of things we uncovered in one tiny shop - the kind where everything was stacked floor to ceiling and the whole store was just a nook blocked off from under a pedway staircase, if I recall.

There was a lot more I wished I could have seen and done, but we were on a timetable. It was back to the place and time to grab our luggage for the cab ride to Incheon airport.

My last photo of the trip was snapped out the cab window as we drove by this bridge over the Han River.

One week was too short, especially after being absent for four years. I won't deny that I think about going back again. I think about it when I post these pictures; I think about it when I get a message from the family over there; I am sure I will think about it heavily when tax season rolls around again in Spring.

Our flight back to Toronto went alright. I was a bit disappointed to find that Lotteria no longer sells Teryburgers which I'd had a craving for from Day 1. I think I ended up grabbing a Bulgogi burger of some sort before I caught the plane. I noticed that the menu had gotten a lot more advanced in the last four years. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can get cheese on your burger now.

Half a day later, we were back. I know I've been lax in getting these pictures up (though with the backdates, I don't have to admit to exactly how lazy/time-constrained I was.) I really hope that I'll manage a follow up in 2009 and that we get another chance to go over. If not in 2009, then soon after. Who knows? If we settle in Toronto, we might get company coming back our way, as the newlyweds have a strong desire to see Canada. Only time will tell.

Labels: Korea Trip 2008

Saturday, October 04, 2008

Garden of Morning Calm Part I, Day 5.

The road to the Garden of Morning Calm involved some steep and narrow backroads leading up through the countryside and mountains. We got there mid morning and filed out of the vans to take to the waking trails and see the beautiful flowers, trees and shrubs against the backdrop of Korean mountains.

I believe admission was about 8000 won per person and if you're a budding photographer, it's worth the price. Parking was a bit hard to find and we ended up in one of the lots highest up on the hillside.

We joined the throngs and worked our way through the gardens. As the day got closer to noon, a lot of people were showing up to picnic on some of the open fields, also a great idea.

It was truly a beautiful stroll and a great family outing for our last full day in Korea. The inclines seemed a lot higher than they actually were, too, so there was no major exertion getting in the way of enjoying the peacefulness.

Traditional roof peeking out from the trees.

There are a few interpretive centres on site, built in traditional form to maintain the aesthetic.

At one spot, near a small riverbed where the water is largely just a trickle, people have taken to stacking the old river stones into rock sculptures.

I tried to stop and admire the little things but we also wanted to keep up with everyone in the group. All of us from the night before were walking the trails together and especially for the newlyweds, it was a gorgeous photo opportunity for their first full day as a married couple.

Cont'd...

Labels: Korea Trip 2008

Garden of Morning Calm Part II, Day 5.

What with the couple of hours we had to walk around, the Garden of Morning Calm was one of the main chances I got to take some shots for our memories. Of course, most of those were family shots and you can see those on my Facebook account if you're on my list. These shots, for the most part, are less personal and more of the scenery itself.

One of the Yangban's buildings in shadow.

The Yangban's House is one of the centre points of the garden. In the middle of the trails, you can walk into the traditional residence, its courtyard and several of the buildings.

A number of traditional items grace the walls of some of the outbuildings.

Lots of visitors sat around the house to take a rest in the shade, as even in fall, the weather was still getting quite hot at midday. We took our pictures and pressed on.

Between the mountains in the background, the green of the valley, and all the colours of the flowers, it's hard to narrow down a single best thing. They all merge together into a very tranquil piece of land away from the usual bustle of Korea.

Probably one of my favourite shots from the day isn't even really of flowers. It's this shot of grasses against the mountains.

Toward the end of the trails, there's also a nice little waterfall and brook area. The falls aren't huge by any stretch but they're a great spot to cool your heels on a hot day.

After leaving the garden, we said farewell to the newlyweds who were now off to explore around the country on their true honeymoon. They'd be stopping in at Busan in a few days but first, the rest of us were off to one more night staying at their house in Seoul. Turns out that we hit the city right around suppertime though, and even though it was Saturday, there was a bit of a rush hour.

Don't let the Busan Pharmacist sign fool you; we were in Seoul, specifically Dongjak-gu, Sangdo-dong. Back for our last night, it was time for supper and snacks afterward. One of my few un-rushed nighttime pictures, I snapped this on the streets of my brother-in-law's neighbourhood as we ventured out for Korean pears and wine. The next day, we'd be flying back to Canada.

Labels: Korea Trip 2008

Overnight to Cheongpyeong, Day 4 and 5.

After the service, we hopped in a pair of vans and headed up to Cheongpyeong, to spend the evening near the headwaters of the Han. "Pension" is the new Konglish appellation for the kind of cabin or resort where you can conceivably spend your pension money.

Gate on the way out of Korea University.

The above photo was just a quick shot of the gate into the university where the service and reception were held. A few minutes later, we were through the gate and on the road out of Seoul.

I grabbed what pictures I could as the sun was going down and dusk setting in. The van had a sunroof so I tried some pictures through that when we were in slower traffic. Slow traffic, would unfortunately, but the theme from then on for the next few hours. Getting out of the city for the weekend was a popular idea.

I also tried a few out the side window. I was a bit disappointed that I didn't get a lot of nighttime shots of Korea on the trip, but the most important thing was that we enjoyed our time and had a great vacation with the family.

I added a few more shots in the morning, to show the pretty scenery around the Cheongpyeong area. I was rather peaceful up there, despite a lot of people taking advantage of the nice fall weather to also hit the country.

Looking up at the pension, multi-floored as opposed to single units.

With so many of us, it was nice to have our own kitchen facilities and the place we rented had lots of floorspace for us to crash on. Altogether, we had ourselves, my wife's best friend, my parents-in-law, the bride and groom and each of their best friends - nine in total if my calculations are right.

After eating and drinking the night through, we left the Pension and began the ride back. Traffic wasn't as bad on Saturday morning and we were looking forward to making a couple of stops along the way. One thing that surprised me was the western-style home construction in the area. Much was designed for cabins instead of regular homes, but it was odd to see the more familiar Western roofs all throughout the mountains.

Back on the road, our next stop was the Garden of Morning Calm to get even closer to cultivated nature.

Labels: Korea Trip 2008

Friday, October 03, 2008

My brother and sister in law on their wedding day.

The Happy Day, Day 4.

Friday was the big day and the main reason for our trip at this time. My brother-in-law was about to be married.

We'd met his fiance for the first time after landing at Seoul Station and were able to share supper together before she headed out to prepare at home for the big day.

My brother-in-law was moving at a hectic pace and a bit nervous, I'd say, but very happy and attentive to all of us just as he should have been focusing on himself. Helping out tremendously, however, was one of his childhood friends from Busan who'd become our chauffeur for the day (he'd been a driver for his military service so he was infinitely well qualified.)

We were also very happy to meet our future sister-in-law. She speaks English (big bonus for me) and has a very endearing sense of humour. There was no time at all that we felt like we hadn't known each other for ages, which is a pretty big feat when you're welcoming two people from abroad into your life.

All of this just added to feelings I already had. Korea is definitely a second home. It didn't quite feel that way when I lived there, but since marrying my wife, I've felt that I now significantly have a foot in each of our countries. Being so warmly received by my in-laws in Korea, however, and having the old comfortableness of Seoul come back to me upon arriving there, it started making me wonder how long before we'd be planning the next trip and whether it might be for more than a week or two. My wife and I love our families and feel blessed every day that we won the jackpot on both sides of the family tree.

The wedding itself would be held at Korea University, where both my brother-in-law and his fiance had attended. I think there was a desire to make it a more secular affair and the officiant of the service was actually a political figure whom they had both worked with at one time on matters of labour and human rights. I suppose, as I have extended my family through Korea, this actually made me feel closer to the national fabric of the country too. I sometimes think I have made more bonds with Korea after leaving the country than while I was there.

Now, I didn't get a photo of the poster but it's worth noting that the university is also the proud home to Korean super woman and record-breaking weightlifter Jang Mi-Ran who had competed at the Beijing Olympics that summer.

It's certainly a beautiful campus and reminded me a bit of my old alma mater in Canada. We raced to get there through Seoul traffic (with a brand new GPS that's all the rage now in Korea) and quickly took photos of the bride and groom in tux and dress. They'd be changing into more traditional clothes immediately after the service so now was the best time to get their shots out of the way. They even had a star photographer, the author of a travel guide which had featured my sister-in-law while she did volunteer work abroad.

The service went well. My wife, her best friend and I actually played a few songs on ukulele, tambourine and guitar for the service to help celebrate. Afterwards, we had a buffet dinner downstairs. Over 500 guests were there, including many from my wife's rather huge extended family in the east. They'd chartered a bus to bring them in. After eating, we raced upstairs and a second, traditional ceremony was held, as you can see above.

What was maybe less traditional was that after my sister-in-law gave my wife a sticky piece of yut to eat, she slipped it to me and I had to finish it. You see, the tradition is that the bride gives it to her new sister-in-law as a symbol to "keep her mouth quiet", from whence comes a rather rude expression in Korea when used out of context, which I suppose would be more in line with my wife giving it to me.

I haven't included a photo of all the food unwrapped because, you see, at the time of the ceremony, I had no idea it was real. It looked so beautiful, I assumed it was just props. I was so wrong. My sister-in-law's wonderfully talented aunt is a specialist in traditional foods and runs a catering business to that extent. Everything you see on the table above is real, including the male and female chickens (wrapped out of view) and even foods such as stingray which we'd be snacking on later.

Ceremony over, we got out of our suits as best we could and into more comfortable clothes. We hopped into two vans and, much like my wife and I, began their honeymoon with a family road trip to share more time. We headed out of Seoul and into the countryside to a "pension" resort near the headwaters of the Han River.

Labels: Korea Trip 2008

Thursday, October 02, 2008

The Trainride to Seoul, Day 3.

We had one duty to accomplish on Thursday and that was to travel to Seoul. I'd taken the trip a few times by bus and sometimes by train, once upon a time, but the new high-speed KTX began service just as I left Korea in March 2005. In comparison, when Yeji left Seoul a couple of months later, she was able to take the new KTX to Busan to see her folks then. It's nice to cut a couple of hours off the trip. This post is of the images I was able to capture on the journey.

Having not really recorded the station names, this post might be a bit short on commentary. Busan and its suburbs take up the first half hour or so of the trip, with a few stops here and there, but it's not too long until you get to see some rice paddies and countryside towns. The mountains, of course, are always popping into view.

I'm thinking these buildings are on the approach to Daegu though I could easily be corrected. As far as I can remember, the station below is also somewhere along the outskirts of Daegu. All I know is that I've maintained the order of the photos so you can at least see things in the same manner in which I did on my voyage.

If there's one thing that Korea has as a strength for developing tourism, it's that you can travel around the country cheaply and expediently. Our tickets to Seoul cost about 45,000 won, which at the time was less than forty bucks Canadian. Regular buses and trains are even cheaper.

The scenery started getting busier again close to Seoul as we made our way to arrive around supper time. In my other regular posts lately, I've mentioned that I've yet to feel at home in Toronto or Mississauga but getting back to Seoul sure felt that much more familiar and being surrounded by family made it even more so.

We got in to the station and met my brother-in-law and his fiance (the first time meeting her for either Yeji or I.) The next day would be the wedding but for tonight, we drove back to their new house, had supper and turned in for a good night's sleep before the busy day to come.

Labels: Korea Trip 2008

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

Sun going down over a bay at Taejongdae.

Sunset on the Coast, Day 2, evening.

We rushed along the roads in a hope to get in one more photo stop before evening but Busan's rush hour traffic was slowing us down. By the time we got to the coast at Taejongdae, the sun was just about to go down.

We were on our way to Jasalbawee ("Suicide Rock"), which is a cliff along the oceanside with many pointed rocks below. For a place so-named, you wouldn't necessarily expect a small amusement park to be at the base of the hill, or trolley cars ferrying the crowds to the top -- an at the time we arrived, both were largely inactive. The trolley was still running but the wait would have been an additional forty-five minutes which would have taken us too late into the evening.

As we walked back down the hill from the visitor station, it was getting darker. I took another shot of the town from the other side of the hospital shown in the photo above.

By now, the ships in the harbour were also all alit for the night and this is one of my favourite photos from the trip. The harbours around Busan are always busy and quite remarkable to look out over.

On the ride back to my in-laws' house, I was in the middle of the van so it was a bit tricky to capture any night time images, which are usually my favourite. I took this one above which turned out fairly clear, but was limited by the motion of the van and the problem of trying to capture low-light photos when your batteries are starting to run down.

This was pretty much the last clear photo of the night but with so much of the building in darkness, it was time to put the camera away and patiently enjoy the rest of the ride home. The next day, we'd be saying goodbye to Busan and making our way to Seoul in preparation of my brother-in-law's wedding on Friday.

Labels: Korea Trip 2008